Waves are one of the most visible and consistent phenomena in our oceans, creating the rhythmic sound of the shoreline and driving many marine processes.

Nature Of Waves

Waves are oscillations that move across the surface of water bodies, predominantly oceans. Contrary to what it may seem, it isn’t the water that’s moving across vast distances; instead, it’s the energy. Water particles in a wave, in fact, move in small, almost circular paths. As the wave travels, the water particle returns to its original position, having completed a small loop.

Energy Source — Wind

The primary driver of most waves is the wind. The surface of the ocean is vast, and as wind blows across it, it transfers some of its energy to the water, creating ripples which can grow into larger waves. The stronger the wind, the larger the wave can become, provided it blows consistently over a long stretch of water, known as the fetch.

Interaction With Shorelines

As waves approach shallow water near coastlines, they undergo a transformation. Due to the friction between the moving wave and the sea floor, the wave slows down. The top (or crest) of the wave continues at the same speed causing the wave to rise. When the depth is less than half the wavelength, the wave height becomes too much for its base, leading to it toppling over or breaking. This phenomenon is what we see as surf on beaches.